Beneath a dappled canopy of thriving trees in the thick forest of Cerro Verde Natural Park, our ever-smiling hiking guide, Kevin, stops to point out a particularly healthy Platonia tree. It’s famous around here. “It is said that if you hug him, it takes away all your worries about people, health, finances. But not your taxes. It can’t help it,” he explains to an amused audience.

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While other members of the group wrap their arms around him and take photos, an elderly Salvadoran woman looks him up and down and conspires with her loved one: “Take a saw, I’ll cut it and take it home.” »

Soon the forest opens up to a magnificent view of Lake Coatepeque and the verdant volcanoes in the background. As we break for another photo shoot, Maria – an American resident born in El Salvador – explains to me that she and her family are here for a big reunion.

During their week together, the family visited volcanic landscapes, horticultural towns and archaeological sites in Latin America’s smallest but most densely populated country, known as “the little thumb of the Americas.”

They head to La Libertad, the country’s surfing hub located 45 minutes south of the capital, San Salvador. Maria’s partner plans to take on La Paz: a slow wave that stretches far up the Pacific coast, making it a beginner’s wave with bragging rights. The older generation plans to take a trip to hotels. “You can buy day passes at luxury hotels for around US$20 (£15) and use their pools and facilities. It makes things cheaper,” says Maria.

Surfing, volcanoes, forests, seaside resorts. If this reminds me of my stay in Costa Rica several years ago. And the two nations have a lot in common.

El Salvador is 450 miles north of Costa Rica, both on the thin strip of land that connects North America to the South. They share a similar topography of volcanoes and rugged coastlines, a tropical climate, and a history of Spanish colonial rule. But since independence in 1821, political instability, civil war and ultimately gang violence have left El Salvador lagging behind its more touristy neighbors.

However, over the past two years the government has cracked down on gang-related crime. Homicides have declined significantly in what was once the murder capital of the world and it is now much safer to travel there – although it should be noted that this comes at a cost – human rights organizations say during the state of emergency, many people were detained without due process. .

Yet as the country has become safer, the number of visitors has increased significantly. In 2023, El Salvador ranked as the fifth best performing destination according to the World Tourism Organization. And at the start of this year, the number of visitors was 35 percent higher than last year at the same time.

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Traveling around the country – the same size as Wales, but a little more abundant in street art and tropical flower displays – one feels about to encapsulate the positive state of mind of the ‘pura vida” from Costa Rica.

For tourists, it helps that El Salvador is easy on the wallet. Meals, transportation and activities generally cost a third less than in Costa Rica, and are especially inexpensive if you try the national dish, pupusa: thick corn tortillas stuffed with melted cheese, meat or beans, served in street vans with hot salsa. . Divine, filling and often for just a few dollars.

Although the accommodation offer in El Salvador is not as developed, it is competitive. The average cost of a night in a mid-range hotel is £100 in Costa Rica. In Suchitoto, one of El Salvador’s best-preserved colonial towns and former capital, the quiet El Tejado costs £65 for a double room.

Even in troubled times, Suchitoto – in the center of the country – was a popular destination on Latin America’s Gringo Trail backpackers for its streets of historically significant terracotta-roofed houses and the iconic Iglesia Santa Lucia. In the city’s central square, this immense confection of a colonial church is painted such a bright white that I have to put on my sunglasses to admire it.

It’s a go-to guide as I wander around, heading to the market to admire the fantastic yellow of the sweet corn and the row of strong-shouldered pupusa makers, completing piping hot batches for loyal customers.

The church directs me as I return from a dyeing workshop at Arte Añil, which had piqued my interest when I learned that indigo was a major export from El Salvador. Fall is the best time to travel – eight cheaper, quieter vacations to book now – responsible for Levi’s blue jeans, for example.

Like Maria and her clan, my final stop is also some rest and relaxation by the water. Rather than the Pacific coast, I stay at Cardedeu Residence, a stylish boutique hotel overlooking the glassy Lake Coatepeque, which plunges about 200 meters deep. It’s the kind of refuge that makes you reevaluate your priorities in life.

When my Duolingo Spanish level means I’m forced to mime the words “where’s breakfast?” and “extra towels” with friendly faces, I know it’s a hidden gem. I hope it retains this charm.

How to get there

Connecting flights to San Salvador are available via the United States, Canada and Colombia.

Where to stay

Fairfield by Marriott in San Salvador offers B&B from $124 (£93), marriott.com.

Hotel Casa 1800 Suchitoto offers B&B from $89 (£67), casa1800 suchitotofig.velvetverandas.com

Cardedeu Residence Lake Cotepeque offers double rooms from $140 (£105), cardedeuhotels.com.

More information

elsalvador.travel,

visit centroamerica.com/en